Swimmers: forget what Duke says, pool time is much more thrilling than riding waves. The surf is inconsistent, there are no lanes to organize surfers, and the risk of getting seriously hurt is much higher. The pool is undoubtedly the better choice.  

"Duke Kahanamoku, considered by many to be the original 'father of surfing,' interviewed here by Bruce Brown, the director of 'Endless Summer'. This interview was conducted in December of 1965, at the first annual Duke Kahanamoku invitational surfing competition. Jeff Hakman, Mickey Dora, Butch Van Artsdalen, Greg Noll, Mike Hynson, and many more were in attendance."