| Surf Session of a Lifetime |
| Saturday, 24 May 2008 | |
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While most surfers were tucked away in the comfort of their homes and while San Diego was seeing blown out surf like that ...
I was surfing alone for 5 hours a 'secret spot' in the heart of San Diego, with perfect waves that looked more like this ...
This is no joke! I mean the waves didn't look exactly like the ones in this picture of Chicama, but they were nevertheless INCREDIBLE!!! After 5 hours, I was completely sore but stoked out of my mind. It was defintely one of the best sessions of my life! Now you can count on me not telling you where I surfed. You are, however, free to use your imagination: go figure it out. |
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